this product ships to a commercial business
with NO home on the
property. West of the Dakotas and East of Pennsylvania will be subject to
additional shipping charges if they exceed the basic shipping rate of
$229.00. Trucks do not call they just show up and expect to be unloaded
with a fork lift or loading dock. (RESTRICTIONS CAN APPLY such as, but
not limited to: farms, schools, construction sites, limited access,
rural businesses, churches, and home businesses) If you want home
delivery or a have a business that DOES NOT APPLY, you must add $70 for
home delivery. You can purchase the residential delivery by requesting
an invoice or messaging us to send you a paypal request for the
additional service. If you do not give us a qualifying address and did
for the rural/residential charges, we would contact you to request the
information or payment. IF
YOU NEED A LIFTGATE YOU MUST message FOR A QUOTE! If you make any
to the shipment with the shipping company once it has left, (adding a
call before, lift gate or any other added service, you will be subject
to a minimum $100 charge depending on the cost of the added services.
This product weighs under 1 pound per foot. It will ship on a pallet.
350 FT OF ALL NEW 5 WRAP of American Royal 1 inch insulated underground tubing featuring our NEW 5 wrap insulation.
Thank you for your interest in our PIPE all new 5 WRAP PEX. I HAVE SPREAD
THE TUBES IN THE PHOTO SO YOU CAN SEE THE INSULATION BETWEEN THE PIPES. IF YOU WANT TO SEE WHAT THE COMPETITION SAYS SEE THE END OF THIS AD!! THE MYTHS OF PIPE???
1. Our Rheau R18 pex and microfoil closed cell insulation is wrapped so it separates the 2 Rehau pex tubes. This eliminates heat transfer from one line to the other.
2. Our microfoil closed cell insulation is much better than the 3 and 5 wrap others use. We could save 40 cents per foot using the competitions cheaper insulation but we
feel that the insulation is the most important part of the product and refuse to forgo quality for price.
3. We use Rehau class (A) pex tubing. Class (A) pex pipe is the most expensive and best pex that you can buy. Rheau pex is expandable other pex pipe is not expandable.
This means if the pex freezes under the ground or above then it will not crack or split. Others say the pex they sell is not expandable but will not crack if frozen!!!!.
I have never seen water freeze and not expand .
4. The drain tile we use is made just for this type of product. It is made thicker and slower to help eliminate BLOWOUTS in the drain tile therefore helping to
eliminating problems for customers.
5. Folks we do not put an electrical wire inside of our pipe. Think about it??? If the electrical line did fail it would electrify the house and could cause fire or possible
injury. The electrical line inside the pipe is not code and would not be safe to install that way.
6. Others say they are a USA mfg BEWARE as they may buy foreign then assemble them here. We use Rehau pex pipe made in the USA. We use drain tile made in the
USA We use Microfoil insulation made in the USA. We put all the parts together in the USA. NOW IT DOES NOT GET ANY MORE USA MADE THAN THAT.
Our superior American Royal pipe consist of two class A (Rehau or Wirsbo) 1 inch pex tubes wrapped in our premium quad wrap insulation that is then pre-assembeled in our protective 4 inch waterproof drain tile. The two pex lines are coded for ease in telling the difference between the two.
What is the difference between our pipe and the pipe others are selling???
Our pipe insulation is made from our high quality microfoil invented by NASA, not the cheaper bubble wrap or low E insulation that others use. Our high quality insulated line has a much higher R value than others with a rating of about R18. That is about 1 degrees of heat loss per 150ft of tubing. That makes this one of the best values.
Ours does NOT have a string in it to pull the electric wire through. Water and electric does NOT mix! By putting your electrical wire through the same tubing as the water lines, you are endangering yourself in case of a short in the wire as it will electrify your water in the line. This can cause a fire or even death!
Our line is expandable! Others may tell you that the pipe they sell is not expandable and will not crack if frozen. Have you ever seen water freeze and not expand? Decide for yourself if the wool is being pulled over your eyes! Beware of cheaper grades of pipe!
Our heavy duty tubing has the shipping weight of 300lbs per 250 foot roll. The inside pipe of this product is class A pex for portable water. Many towns and building inspectors will not approve anything but Class A for underground applications! If you are looking at pipe that is not expandable and can only be used with crimp fittings, or that does not have Class A printed on the pipe, it's more than likely NOT pex Class (A) for potable water and a cheaper quality! The inside 1 inch Pex lines are made from REHAU Pex or WIRSBO, two of the top quality lines on the market! Our customers do NOT have a choice of the brand it depends of availability between these two lines but both are equally superior.
Warranty: Introducing our 40 year limited warranty against cracking and splitting. We can offer this amazing warranty to you because of the high quality of this pipe! Shop with confidence! If the inside pipe freezes and cracks, we will replace it at no charge to you! If the line freezes and cracks due to pump failure or other reasons, we will ship you a 'loaner line' that can be laid on top of the ground until the spring when the frozen lines thaw out. There is no charge for this service except for the shipping costs to and from your location, as this is will be only a loaner line and must be returned. No other company makes this offer! Our pipe can freeze solid without breaking where others can not!
Service: We offer service over the phone even after the sale! 7 days a week! Call our knowledgeable staff for any questions or concerns. We would be delighted to answer any questions you may have! 920-838-1764 or 920-838-4205.
Shipping: Don't delay we have this product in stock for immediate shipment. SHIPPING IS FOR EAST OF THE DAKOTAS AND PEOPLE WEST WILL PAY A LITTLE BIT MORE. We will ship
to the lower 48 FREE but it must be to a commercial business address
with no residence on the property. Because the driver just shows up
for a commercial delivery, the business has to be open normal
business hours and someone there to unload with a fork lift or
loading dock. Please include this information at the time of purchase
or email the information to us immediately to insure your shipment
will not be delayed due to not providing the correct shipping
delivery is available for an additional cost of about $70. You are
responsible for unloading the package but it does includes a phone
call before delivery so you know when the truck will arrive.
THIS IS WHAT THE COMPETITION TRYS TO GET YOU TO BELIEVE.
Myth #1 There are three types of insulation that is used with wrapped piping for outdoor wood stoves and solar systems.
NO, THERE IS OVER 5 KINDS OF INSULATON. The first one that is used is a common one, the bubble wrap insulated pipe.YES BUBBLE WRAP IS WHAT WE CALL LOW E AND THAT IS WHAT THIS GUY IS SELLING. SO LOW E IS WHAT WE AGAIN CALL BUBBLE WRAP. Most people can tell what it is. It actually has air bubbles in it that is what is used for the insulation. After several heating cycles, the bubbles tend to cause the plastic to break down.THAT IS WHAT WE SAY HAPPENS TO THAT TYPE OF PIPE. When the plastic breaks down the air looses it?s protective surrounding and you no longer have an air bubble so you no longer have insulation. The second type of insulation that is commonly used in piping for outdoor wood furnaces is a type of insulation that has a foam on one side and an aluminum foil on the other. This type of insulation is very good if you are using your furnace year around and never shut it down. The problem is if you shut it down your pipes will condensate just like the water pipes in your basement condensate and you will end up causing water to be in your insulation. THIS IS JUST NOT TRUE WHAT DOES SHUTTING THE STOVE DOWN HAVE TO DO WITH CONDENSATION??? THE LOW- E BUBBLE WRAP PIPE WILL CONDENSATE AS WELL!!!! This type of insulation is what is called an open cell insulation which absorbs water like the sponge in your sink does. The problem with this is when it heats up and dries out the insulation again when starting your wood stove, it causes the insulation to not work properly.BUY MICROFOIL INSULATION AS IT IS CLOSED CELL INSULATION AND IS NOT A BUBBLE WRAP LIKE WE SEE THE LOW-E BRAND OTHERS SELL The third type of insulation that is used is low-E insulation.IN OUR OPINION IT IS THE BUBBLE WRAP TYPE HE SPOKE OF IN THE ABOVE ITEM. It is a polyethylene with aluminum on both sides of the insulation. The polyethylene is actually sealed in between the insulation so that it can never get water in it even if the pipes condensate. The other thing about this insulation is that even if water could get to the polyethylene, the polyethylene does not absorb water so it would not damage the polyethylene even in that event. All of the wrapped type underground piping that we sell uses low-E insulation.YES THIS IS THE TYPE OF INSULATION THE INDUSTRY CONSIDERS BUBBLE WRAP. We feel it is the best type of insulation.IT IS NOT Low-E has an R value of 11. When you buy a triple-wrap it will be a R value of 33. Go to the following web page and see the specifications for the Low-e insulation. OK HERE WE GO WITH CLAIMS OTHERS MAKE JUST SO THEY CAN MAKE CLAIMS. R VALUE IS SET IN A LAB UNDER CONTROLLED CONDITIONS. ON SHEET DOES OFFER R11 WITH WARM AIR ON ONE SIDE AND COLD AIR ON THE OTHER. ONCE YOU ELIMINATE THE AIR BY WRAPPING IT YOU LOOSE THE INSULATING VALUE. SECOND ONCE HEAT HAS ESCAPED THE FIRST LAYER OF FOIL IT STOPS THE HEAT FROM MOVING BACK TO THE FIRST WRAP. SO THIS HEAT BECOMES A COMPLETE LOSS. BEWARE OF PEOPLE NOT TELLING THE TRUTH AND MAKING STUFF UP. HERE IS WHAT THE EXPERTS SAY ABOUT R VALUE Before we talk about Low-E? Reflectiv e Insulation we need to define two thermal values. The first being "R" th e second being "E". An "R" value is technically described as resistance to conductive heat flo w. Remember that conduction only accounts for up to 7% of the heat transfer. "R" values play such a small part in stopping the heat that is transferred into your building, maybe we should ask ourselves why we put so much importance on high "R" values
Myth #2 The drain tile that surrounds the pipe. Everyone thinks all the drain tile is the same and doesn't mean anything. There is two different kinds of drain tile. One would be recycled drain tile and the other would be virgin drain tile. The recycled drain tile is from ground up plastic and is a good thing, being environmentally friendly, the problem is the tendency is for it to crack. You do not want you underground piping to crack. Water gets in the cracks, if it is enough to puddle is a very bad thing, it will turn your insulated pipe into a heater. We use virgin drain tile just because of this problem. HOW MANY LIES CAN ONE PLACE TELL. THEY USE GOLD LINE DRAIN TILE. I JUST CALLED PRINCO THE COMPANY THAT MAKES THE DRAIN TILE AND THEY SELL 50% VIRGIN AND 50% RECYCLED TILE. THIS IS THE BEST TILE FOR THE OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE APPLICATION. GOLD LINE MAKES THE PIPE SPECIAL FOR ME IN THE OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE INDUSTRY. 100% VIRGIN TILE WILL CRACK AS IT IS TOO THICK. THE 50 50 TILE IS THICK,FLEXIBLE AND IS THE BEST TO USE FOR SUNLIGHT AND PUTTING IN THE GROUND. PRINSCO SLOWS THE MFG PROCESS DOWN TO REDUCE BLOWOUTS (PIN HOLES) THIS IS THE ONLY TILE WE USE AS IT IS THE BEST AND MADE FOR MY PIPE Also when exposed to sunlight the virgin drain tile will last twice as long as the recycled drain tile.
Myth#3 Pex tubing: the tubing in the underground pipe that the water is transferred through. Pex tubing is made 3 different ways; there is A-Pex which is like Rehau or Wirsbo, B-Pex and C-Pex. Most piping for outdoor furnaces is B-Pex and it doesn?t really matter which brand you use, they all have to adhere to ASTM standards and all can be used for potable water. The differences in the Pex is the way the cross linking is done. A-pex uses a peroxide method in its cross linking process, B-Pex uses the Silane method which is another chemical that is used in the cross linking process and the C-Pex uses an electron beam method much like a microwave to accomplish the cross linking of the molecules. A-Pex has the advantage that you can expand it with an expansion tool and use full flow fittings. Most people do not have an expansion tool but that would be the advantage. B-Pex is the most common pipe available and can be used with crimp fittings or probite fittings. B-pex will not work with an expansion tool very well. C-Pex is much like B-Pex in the way that it works. It?s more expensive because of the process that is used to make it. Pretty much what I?m saying is that Pex is Pex, manufacturers don?t really make a whole lot of difference, you have choice whether you want A-Pex or B-Pex but it really comes down to the fact that pex is pex. THE ABOVE IS THE MOST RIDICILOUS THING I EVER HEARD. THE TYPE OF PEX DOES NOT MATTER AND PEX IS PEX. THIS IS A FLAT OUT LIE OR THEY DO NOT KNOW WHAT THEY ARE TALKING ABOUT. CLASS (A) PEX IS THE BEST MONEY CAN BUY SO I GUESS WHEN YOU OFFER A CHEAPER GRADE OF PEX MADE IN CHINA THEN I GUESS THAT IS THE ONLY THING YOU CAN SAY WHEN YOU DONT HAVE THE CORRECT ANSWER. OTHERS MUST FEEL THAT CUSTOMERS ARE JUST STUPID AND THEY CAN MAKE ANY CLAIM THEY WANT. There is one other thing that you need to consider when you are purchasing underground pipe and that is whether you need oxygen barrier pipe or non oxygen barrier pipe. Oxygen barrier pipe will work on all systems so, if you have any doubts you should go with an oxygen barrier pipe. Oxygen barrier pipe is really needed only when you are hooking up a steel system boiler in a closed system where you are not going to be adding water treatments and such. If you are using an open system chances are that you will be using water treatment. If you are using a stainless system that is closed then a non-oxygen barrier pipe is fine. Some people prefer Pex-AL-Pex pipe which is also a oxygen barrier pipe but it uses different fittings than regular pex pipe does. We do sell the Pex-al-Pex pipe if that is what you desire. THIS MAKES YOU BELIEVE IF YOU DONT KNOW SPEND MORE MONEY. HERE IS THE FACT IF THE SYSTEM IS CLOSED US OXYGEN BARRIER PEX IF IT IS OPEN USE REGULAR CLASS (A) PEX. THE TYPE OF STEEL DOES NOT MATTER ON WHAT PIPE TO USE.
Myth#4 Another myth is that the two pipes touching each other do not make any difference. I would agree that you are not going to lose the heat because it is cycling back to the outdoor furnace but, it may be a degree or two less, which can make a difference to the indoor furnace. All of our underground pipes have the two pipes separated by a layer of the R11 insulation. OUR PEX HAS A LAYER SEPARATING THE PIPE BUT WE DO NOT USE THE CHEAPER BUBBLE WRAP TYPE LIKE LOW-E WE USE MICROFOIL. HAVING A LAYER OF INSULATION BETWEEN THE LINE IS A MUST AND IT DOES STOP HEAT TRANSFER. THIS IS WHY WE DO IT THIS WAY.
Myth#5 A myth about underground pipe is that you have to bury it 4 feet deep or whatever your frost level is depending on what part of the country you live. This simply is not true, it?s better to bury it 18 to 24 inches below the ground surface unless you are going to be driving over it. The deeper you bury the pipe the more likely you are to run into ground water depending on where you live. Water is the true enemy of this pipe. If you get water inside the pipe or even water against the exterior it decreases the efficiency i thought above they said above that water would not hurt the insulation value now they say water is the true enemy of their pipe. Gosh i wish they would keep track of the things they say.
Myth#6 The foil side of the insulation on the insulated pipe should not face the pex tubing. It doesn?t make any difference whether the foil is next to the pipe or not, you still have the heat being reflected back toward the pex tubing. THIS IS WRONG ONCE THE HEAT LEAVES THE FOIL THEN IT WILL NOT TRANSFER BACK TO THE PIPE. THIS WILL GREATLY REDUCE THE EFFICIENCY OF THE PURPOSE OF THE FOIL AND INSULATION. THE FOIL SHOULD ALWAYS BE ON THE LAST WRAP FOR THIS REASON.
Myth # 7 No matter what, you want to make sure that the pipe is buried properly. Bury it 18 to 24 inches deep and try to use sand or a soft soil around it. Make sure there are no rocks. Rocks can puncture the drain tile which is an important part of the pipe and is definitely a way to make your pipe not function properly, and could cost you a lot of extra fuel. WOW THIS IS EXACTLY RIGHT CANT BELIEVE THEY GOT THIS RIGHT
Myth #8 Some will say that the solid foam pipe is better than the wrapped pipe; I?m not going to say that they are not equals;YOU JUST SAID YOU WONT SAY THEY ARE EQUALS BUT THEN YOU SAY = I believe that they are definitely equal but,COME ON WHICH IS IT we have seen issues with foam pipe. Foam pipe has a conductive heat transfer because it is solid foam from the pex lines to the exterior tile. The wrapped pipe has an air space between the insulation and the exterior tile.THE ONLY ISSUE WITH THE FOAM FILLED PIPE IS THE this guy CAN NOT COMPETE AGAINST IT. The wrapped pipe has a number of areas of air space, between the pex lines, between each layer of insulation and then of course between the insulation and the exterior. All of this increases the insulation value of the pipe. It is true that the wrapped pipe is 4 inches in diameter and the foam pipe is 6 inches in diameter. We have seen problems in wet areas where the solid foam pipe is not as good as the wrapped pipe. WHAT THE HECK BEFORE YOU SAID THE ONLY DOWNFALL OF YOUR PIPE IS THAT IF IT GETS WET IT WILL BE A PROBLEM. SO HOW NOW DO YOU SAY YOU CAN OUT PREFORM THE FOAM FILLED PIPE. PEOPLE IT IS LIES LIKE THIS THAT I JUST CAN NOT STAND. THE FOAM FILLED PIPE IS SUPERIOR IN EVERY WAY OVER HIS PIPE AND MY PIPE. THE DIFFERENCE IS THE FOAM FILLED PIPE IS 4 TIMES MORE MONEY. IT IS BETTER IN EVERY WAY BUT HOW MUCH DO YOU WANT TO SPEND. ANYONE WHO SAYS THE PIPE THEY SELL IS BETTER THAN SOLID FOAM IS LYING OR JUST STUPID.
Myth#9 Another silly myth that I've seen on the internet is that you shouldn't run wire through the pipe because it could short out and electrocute you or burn up the pipe. Well, we always put a length of twine through our pipe so you can run burial wire through it if you wish and with proper wiring you should not have any problem what so ever. Whether you run the wire inside of the pipe or outside in the trench the key to having no problems is proper electrical work THIS IS NOT A MYTH. PUTTING A ELECTRICAL LINE THROUGH THE PIPE HAS NOT BEEN UL LISTED. ANY ELECTRICAL NOT UL LISTED IS NOT LEGAL. SO THIS GUY IS TELLING YOU TO BREAK THIS BUILDING CODE AND THEN TELLING YOU THERE IS NO PROBLEM WITH THE WAY HE MAKES PIPE. THE LEGAL WAY TO INSTALL THE ELECTRICAL LINE IS TO ENCLOSE IT IN CONDUIT FOR DIRECT BURIAL ON TOP OF THE PIPE THAT IS UNDERGROUND PERIOD END OF CONVERSATION.
SO HERE IS THE REAL DEAL ON PIPE WHO DO YOU WANT TO TRUST??? THE CHOICE IS YOURS. IF YOU READ WHAT I HAVE PUT HERE IN RED I THINK THERE MAY BE ONLY ONCE CHOICE. WE WILL NOT LIE OR STRETCH THE TRUTH TO GET YOU TO BUY FROM US. ONE LAST THING THE OTHER SELLER HERE SELLS HIS CLASS B PEX FROM CHINA THE CHEAPEST PEX KNOW TO MAN. IT HAS MANY VARIANCES IN THE THICKNESS OF THE PIPE. IT IS NOT MADE ANYWHERE CLOSE TO THE REHAU PEX WE USE NOR TO THE STANDARDS THAT THEY USE IN TOLERANCES OF THE SAME THICKNESS OF THE PIPE BEING EVEN THROUGH OUT THE PIPE. ASK YOURSELF DO YOU WANT QUALITY OR NOT